This elongated oval mourning brooch features a sophisticated combination of gold and onyx, elegantly adorned with seed pearls. Produced in the late 19th century, this piece is attributed to May Sharland, a noted jeweller of the era, and reflects the craftsmanship of Victorian Britain. The brooch showcases a sleek design typical of the period, with its stark contrast between the dark onyx and lustrous gold, providing a dignified aesthetic befitting its purpose.
Condition Report
The mourning brooch is in very good condition, displaying minimal wear that is consistent with its age and historical use. The gold framework maintains its integrity, showing only slight patina that is expected from a piece of this era. The onyx remains smooth and free from significant scratches or chips. The seed pearls are intact and securely set, exhibiting their natural lustre. The brooch's clasp and hinge mechanisms function properly, ensuring its secure wearability. The back of the brooch is marked with the name 'May Sharland', which is clearly legible and adds to its provenance.
Dimensions
Weight: 15gm, Length: 4.3cm, Width: 2cm, Height: 1cm.
A Symbol of Remembrance
Mourning brooches were popular in the 19th century as a symbol of remembrance, often worn to commemorate loved ones who had passed away. This brooch would have been pinned to clothing during periods of mourning, serving both as a personal memento and a public display of grief. The use of onyx and seed pearls is emblematic of such pieces, conveying a sense of solemnity and respect.
Victorian Mourning Jewellery Design
This brooch is a fine example of Victorian mourning jewellery, a style that became prevalent during the reign of Queen Victoria. The use of dark materials such as onyx combined with gold and pearls was typical of the era's aesthetic sensibilities, reflecting the period's sombre yet ornate design principles. The elongated oval shape of the brooch aligns with the Victorian preference for elegant yet understated forms, making it a quintessential piece of its time.
The Craft of Gold and Onyx Jewellery
The brooch showcases the meticulous craftsmanship involved in creating gold and onyx jewellery. The gold is likely hand-worked, forming a delicate frame that holds the onyx securely. Onyx, a favoured material in mourning jewellery, is expertly polished to achieve a smooth, reflective surface. The seed pearls are carefully selected for their size and lustre, then skillfully inlaid to complement the overall design. Such detailed workmanship highlights the artisans' skills in handling precious materials to create a piece that is both beautiful and functional.
Made by May Sharland
May Sharland was a jeweller known for her contributions to Victorian jewellery design. Her pieces are characterised by their attention to detail and quality of materials, making them sought after by collectors and enthusiasts. The mark on the back of this brooch indicates her authorship, adding to its historical value. Sharland's work is recognised for blending traditional motifs with the sentimental nature of mourning jewellery, creating pieces that are both personal and timeless.
Appeal to Collectors of Victorian Jewellery
Mourning jewellery like this brooch holds a special place in the hearts of collectors, cherished for its historical significance and craftsmanship. Collectors are often drawn to the stories these pieces tell, as well as their connection to a bygone era. The combination of gold, onyx, and pearls exemplifies the Victorian approach to mourning jewellery, making it an attractive addition to any collection. The provenance and maker's mark further enhance its appeal, offering insights into the cultural and personal histories associated with such items.